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Saturday, June 10 Quai

Antwerp cathedral, diamond, its cobblestone streets. Especially its port, the fourth of the world for international traffic of goods, the tenth for container traffic. An internal transport network of about 270 km of roads, 1,000 km of railways and 300 km of pipelines. A network that provides a cold sweat to taxi drivers. Mine is Georgian, lives in Antwerp last twelve years, speaks English, Flemish, a little Russian. And put a good hour, losing themselves repeatedly before finding the correct platform. A fisherman who tells us with a detailed map port.

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869

Pier 869 for me who am about to embark on Eilbek, German container acting as the liaison between Antwerp and Montreal, via Liverpool to return. The cargo ship has arrived. The two passengers are still on the boat. A retiree of Toulouse, a little disappointed not to have suffered storm over the Atlantic. And Florence, a mathematician bossa to CNRS in Strasbourg, decided to make the last hours of his journey exciting history of forgetting feared a return to France after five months at the University Pittsburgh United States.

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Four passengers, twenty-two sailors

Sharon, the steward is content. A Filipino, like most members of the crew who also has an Estonian, a Latvian, Ukrainian and German apprentice. Sharon offers a box of Leonidas in all new passenger. It is four plus twenty-two sailors on board, including five officers and the captain. Jean-Luc, a French in Montreal, who is preparing for its sixth voyage, and swears by travel by freighter. Anne, a young French woman, an immigrant about to start a new life in Canada and wishes make this trip a transition between his two lives. Klaus, a German, 64, who lives the dream of his life. Adolescent prevented from going to sea by his parents, he made the round trip, three weeks sea

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of sludge and a nuclear power plant, the dream!

I, finally, who will spend a year Canada, a working holiday visa, just a program, in the pocket. I've always been attracted to industrial landscapes, sludge, the overalls of workers and transportation in general. There I Sea and more. Better still, the ocean. The icing on the cake there's even a nuclear power plant just across the other side of the Scheldt. I do not see the smoke that spews from my cabin, number 3, Deck 10, after climbing the equivalent of a four-storey building. Rule to remember: do not forget her camera in her room. At the same time, climbing stairs inside and outside of the boat is one of the only exercise for the passengers of the freighter. Bridge docking to the wheelhouse, while high, is about thirty feet of stairs.

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Montreal instead of St. Petersburg

Eilbek The 2005 was originally liaise Antwerp St. Petersburg, four days traveling around. It belongs to the company Hapag-Lloyd, one of the largest in Germany. A company that has only its own vessels. Deck 4, a sauna and an exercise bike are available to the crew and passengers. "Unsatisfactory for transatlantic crossings," said the captain. lacks a swimming pool and bar. " Scheduled to go to St. Petersburg without the help of icebreakers, the Eilbek has no problem in contrast to driving in winter in the St. Lawrence.

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Full

16h. A barge is approaching, move to stick to the freighter. It happens like that in commercial ports. The boats do not go to the fuel pump, fuel pump comes to boats. It takes several hours to fill the 800-ton tank.

17.30. Dinner. We eat early on a freighter. Breakfast between 7:30 and 8:30, lunch between 11:30 and 12:30. Jean-Luc greet the captain with whom he made the trip three weeks ago. Captain Knut Wolters, wants to go through the north of Scotland than the English Channel. We will approach des icebergs visibles au large de Terre-Neuve. On n’en est pas encore là. Toujours à quai dans le port d’Anvers. C’est samedi soir sur la terre belge. Et l’odeur des bars alléchante. Le capitaine propose une virée dans le centre ville avec un des officiers, allemand de Hambourg lui aussi. Jean-Luc nous accompagne. Offre une petite visite… de l’ancien port où apparellait les ancêtres de l’Elbeik il y a encore quelques années. Quand une sortie en ville ne coûtait pas 50€ de taxi ! A la terrasse d’un bar, on tombre, par hasard, sur Florence qui passe la soirée avec nous. Comme pour faire durer un peu plus le plaisir de sa traversée.

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home Sunday, June 11

7.45. Wake a little painful after beers yesterday. In the morning light, the port offers a wide view and colorful containers. How? 1600 to the maximum, "said the captain. Gradually, as time passes, the unloading of the ship is delayed. Announced on Sunday morning and Sunday afternoon. At 21h, he still has not started ... The start is scheduled for Monday morning.

Doy, one of two Filipino officers, shows us around the boat, said corners prohibited, unless the captain consents. Suffice to say that the passenger does not master some basic English can be found quickly dropped. Without moorings. The safety precautions - for example, avoid the bridge docking departure and arrival, are punctuated with anecdotes frightening. As Marine whose leg was cut by a sharp setback in the mooring rope, another who lost the tip of a finger caught in a heavy doors of the ship.

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cards

Midi. In the officers' mess, Sharon is very curious, wonder why my hair is so short. I avoid the joke at the con on the style Goudou land " 'm just a simple "it is more convenient." He laughs, patting his bowl brush. With the cook, Sharon is one of the first and the last to work every day on the freighter. Twelve hours a day.

Inside, the air conditioning an icy spit. Outside, the sun hits. A day lazing around, but without pitching. And a big shot bar after lunch. In the distance, the hum of cranes continue their ballet on the port. Besides, the nuclear power still spits his lungs. The Scheldt is a stone ripples, just to recall its existence. I go up to the wheelhouse deck 13, known as the 'bridge' on board. The top floor of the building. Nico, a Filipino officer prepares the next day's route using maps, compass, pencil and paper. A duplicate more reliable in case of failure of the computer system.

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The former ballet containers

22h. The sun is setting, but it's time, finally, unloading and loading. It will last until 8am. A giant puzzle to put in place, remove containers from Montreal and Liverpool, place those bound for North America. Not just how. Heaviest at the bottom of the cargo, to remove toxic substances from their congeners, history to avoid a dangerous mix. On the port is a ballet of cranes, machinery giant from which dockworkers seem to Playmobil. Some containers reveal their contents .... John Deer tractors brand new, shiny green. In cargo, it is at the heart of globalization. Not the abstract of trading. But one that sweats and stain. I just read a number in the Travel Guide cargo: 98% of global traffic of goods is by boat.

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Monday, June 12

9.15. Slowly, we cast off. Smooth. So much so that Anne, in his cabin, it is not even reported. Road North of Scotland is confirmed. The mails sent by email to the captain to keep the crew aware of international news talking about a collision between two tankers in the Channel. This is not what bothers the captain who seeks less to avoid the crowded highway of the English Channel to take advantage of the tailwind. Two depressions are provided in the North of Scotland between which we must pass . "A bet each time, said the captain. Sometimes, it avoids it, sometimes not. " Aboard the wheelhouse, a pilot port of Antwerp is responsible for guiding the ship through traffic. Until the end of his service ... which will happen sooner than leaving the stream. Okay, a colleague cheek Hawaii State Police, covering 169 meters of the boat without it stops. We cross barges, sailboats, even rigging an old Dutch fleet of brown, so named because of its brown sails. Within minutes, we went to the Netherlands. It takes about three hours to get out of the Scheldt.

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Captain grid fags in his air-conditioned wheelhouse, choking, laughing. A little bear at first, yet charming. Forty-three years of sailing in the legs. A start at the bottom of the scale, as an apprentice in 1963. A title of "master" obtained in 1978. it was done like that at the time. When asked the corners of the globe where he was, he scratches his beard. "You better ask me where I was not: East Africa, South Africa, Antarctica. I made the Arctic aboard a boat went to investigate sources of oil. Before, I wanted to travel around the world. Today, across the Atlantic, it sucks! "

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Boat Captain Knut, work, sleep

From the wheelhouse, was the best view of the whole boat, but without the clean air of the open sea. To get him, you have to take a narrow bridge over the void and return the external gateway. From there, it dominates the skyline and cargo. It also bronze. In short, all the advantages of a cruise without the disadvantages. The sailors in orange jumpsuits are very small and always busy. A sanding, cleaning, fixing, painting over the rust that appears here and there. Work, eat, sleep. The crew starts at 6 am entitled to breakfast at 7:30, a coffee break at 10:30 am, lunch at noon. And stops working around 17h in general. Its the lot of sailors left nine months at sea away from their families. Afterwards, they will be entitled to a two-month stay on the ground, the Philippines or elsewhere.

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Everything is more beautiful seen from a boat

Like a bleached landscape of snow, everything is best seen from a boat. And then, a merchant ship, it's slow. It is a journey within a journey. A journey that can stand on its own without need to go somewhere. Jean-Luc, who has decided to take the time to live and see. Anywhere, anytime. "I do not want to die rich, I want to die happy" is one of his favorite phrase. Happy as Ulysses who took a long trip and seen a hundred landscapes. But rather a phrase of Nietzsche that comes to mind, alleging Wanderer and his Shadow : "We forgot to tell them that there was en route, beautiful views ... " was before the aircraft and mass tourism. On a freighter, as elsewhere, they saw opportunities.

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spend hours in the Scheldt

The hours pass. I do not know if it roll, or the effect of immensity. The fact is that sleep is frequently on a boat. Seated, they go to sleep almost anywhere. Good thing: it's nice and warm. And there's a beach. Eilbek on is the deck 7, the recreational park reserved for officers and passengers, equipped with deckchairs, which receives, anyway, with temps à autre, les effluves des cheminées du bateau.

Question sommeil, Anne est encore pire que moi. Elle passe toute la nuit et une bonne partie de la journée à pioncer dans sa cabine. On vient à peine de partir, mais on se sent déjà très loin. Loin des sonneries de téléphone portable et des résultats de la coupe du monde de foot. L’avantage sur un cargo, c’est qu’on vous fiche ssla paix. Un bonheur comparé aux croisières s’amusent qui sollicitent constamment les passagers à coups de bingo, de leçon de karaté ou de cours de danse. Jean-Luc en a fait l’expérience aux Bahamas. «Environ 3000 people on board, no time for ourselves. Activities that are linked together, as if afraid that the passengers get bored. " On a freighter, the opposite is true. The king is nothing. The vacuum is everything. The silence, despite the hum of machinery, all the excitement of travel. Highly recommended for people who are bored by their own presence.

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was decreased by one hour this morning and we will do the same each day to quietly bring in the era of the East Coast. No time difference arrival is something gained. 8:30. It runs along the east coast of Scotland, the sea is calm and the sky clear. On the deck outside the wheelhouse, west side, we took the wind in full mouth. But it's worth it to move forward. There, a real spectacle awaits the passenger. The ballet painters, suspended in the air on swings related to ropes attached themselves to the railing, leaving a layer of white "tower" of the freighter. In a balance that is reminiscent of workers building skyscrapers New York on old postcards in black and white. To be a sailor, one must also be climber.

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Amador Tuesday, June 13, the cook

10:30. In the kitchen, deck 7, the cook prepares a Amador onion soup for lunch. Filipino too, more than 10 years of sea experience on cooking oil extraction sites in Libya and Arable Arabia employing hundreds of Filipinos. Amador me out a joke: "Why do Chinese have slanted eyes they? "Before my quizzically, he began: " Because they stand still like that table, "he fact, chin in hands, stretching the eyes with his fingers.

board the Eilbek, he begins every morning at 6am, took a break from a half to 13h, and resume service until 19:30. All for $ 1,500 U.S. per month, more than he could ever earn working in his country. After nine months at sea, he will find his family in suburban Manila. Amador adapts to the nationality of the officers. Deli in the morning, eggs & bacon, sausages for breakfast Germans. Rather rice for the Filipino seafarers. But aside from the morning tastes differ, everyone is entitled to the same meal, mix of European and Asian cuisine. Where the donuts Shrimp intersect rare steak and Brussels sprouts. The six hotplates, oven, cutting boards ... This is the universe of Amador, where it can rarely escape.

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Doy officer Philippine

One thing we can not fail to notice. The two officers Filipino Doy and Nico, Jamis not put foot in the officers' mess. When I ask why in Doy, he replied frankly: "I do not feel at ease. I prefer to eat with other Filipinos ... But you can eat there if you want. "The hierarchy may well be on his side, he acts like he is "inferior". Ass between two chairs. As if he had internalized a different hierarchy, unspoken, between North and South.

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Pentland Firth, North of Scotland

13h. The captain called us to come up. The cargo flows between northern Scotland and the Orkney Islands. On the map, it's called the Pentland Firth and the current is strong in our favor, east-west. The cliffs give way to a strip of land all green. The clouds have won the battle. A tower emerges in the distance.

On map, the shortest route between Antwerp and Montreal is a straight line. In reality, it is a curve that goes back to Iceland and Greenland and down to Newfoundland. We tend to forget: the earth is round.

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Sailors painters (continued)

Sailors painters resumed their work, this time on the other side of the tower at the back, sheltered from the wind. Not for long, because the spray coming ruin their efforts. I shoot with my digital camera, with silver as well. Closer to the water this morning, the show is still more impressive.

One of the sailors wonder whether he can transfer the photos on his laptop. I do not fall from the clouds, but almost, to discover that the maritime proletariat is as well equipped as me. Caught in the act of prejudice, as if every arm of the vessel were necessarily miserable. Jean-Luc told us about a previous trip between Montreal and Genoa, on a ship where sailors touched U.S. $ 160 per month for sixteen hours a day. Misery. But a picture that I immediately nodded so she enters my thought patterns. This however, is only part of reality. The reality of Eilbek, recorded in Hamburg and the German flag, is less ugly.

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Wind, Waves Breaking

Jean-Luc spends much time in his cabin. Cargo each trip is an opportunity for him to write plays they will then read to friends, but he never attempted to publish. He would also like to read the draft European constitition rejected last year by the French. A room to itself, the sine qua non to think and write by Virginia Woolf. On a freighter, even the bridge's own.

The sea wants to impress us. The sky is covered. The air cools. Standing on the deck 7, I note, in bulk, the taste of salt on my lips, this salt is deposited everywhere on the boat and also sticks to my shoes, the cloud comes out of my mouth, the horizon shrinks ... Listen to the piano and accordion Yann Tiersen who espouse the movement of the boat. The cargo is primarily a solitary pleasure.

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the monotony of the journey

On-the-French three passengers is always the last after dinner, Georg, engineer en chef, nous propose un verre de vin en regardant le concert d’Il Divo, un quatuor international de chanteurs d’opéra. Georg l’a déjà vu une centaine de fois. Plus aucun officier n’a envie de l’accompagner. Mais Georg, grand amateur d’opéra -encore un cliché à balancer par dessus-bord- a surtout envie de parler. Du cargo, de son travail, de la vie à bord. Si les passagers peuvent être une charge, ils rompent aussi la monotonie du voyage. Le porte-conteneur, c’est pour gagner de l’argent. Ce qu’il aime, c’est embarquer sur des navires de recherche, comme la fois où, dans les Caraïbes, il était entouré de scientifiques et ingénieurs responsible for installing telecommunications cables submarines, about 2,000 km pronfondeur. Georg began sailing at age 16 as an apprentice.

The ship is pitching more. I keep my glass in his hand as a precaution. Back in my cabin, I am glad to pee sitting. I lay everything on the floor, the laptop, books, camera. Chair, table, stereo system, everything is solidly hooked.

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Few stayed because of the wave and tremor of the boat. The morning did not bring de répit. Le ciel est toujours gris, la houle toujours aussi forte. Mais ça se confirme : je ne suis pas sujette au mal de mer. Je renonce quand même à la douche. Trop risquée. Le déjeuner est périlleux. Les nappes antidérapantes ont remplacé celles en tissu. Jean-Luc n’a pas pu se raser ce matin et a effectivement pissé assis. Anne a fait une découverte importante : la position allongée est de loin la meilleure !

A la timonerie, Doy est de quart. On est au sud de l’Islande, la dépression, elle, devant nous, plus proche du Groenland. Un vent force 6. L’échelle de Beaufort en compte 12 . Je ne vois pas très bien ce que ça represents. "Between 22 and 27 nautical miles per hour," said Doy . Knowing one nautical mile equals 1852 meters, wind speed between 40 and 50 km / h. By Force 12, beyond the hurricane, Doy has lost twenty containers in the Pacific. We are far, even if the sea is "rough."

Bad weather reduces even further the activities available on board. The bike, which is already not very Folichon in normal times is recommended. A bicycle accident on a boat, it sucks. Also difficult to write or read. I sleep all ... the day till dinner from 17:30.

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Engine Room

Georg offers us a tour of the engine room, passengers usually prohibited. An underwater world that starts from the deck 5 in the control room computer. They are five to work there in a more stable environment than in the "floors of the tower, but oppressive, where the only light is artificial. Noise, it does not. All work with a noise-canceling headphones on the ears. We file earplugs for the visit.
In the basement of the boat is the world of excess, the Metropolis. We feel very small next to the huge engine that weighs several tons. Daily consumption: 62000 liters of fuel oil, the worst category, funds barrel. Yet it causes less damage to the environment than flying. What is striking is the cleanliness. Another shot put by the wayside. Stairs, machinery, gates ... Everything is nickel. The assistant cleans a bridge every day. There are five.

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Room Machinery (continued) Thursday, June 15

Georg was followed in the bowels of the beast, make pumps, turbines, pistons. The ship even has a system of machining to make the parts they need in case of repair. And manufactures water needed by the crew. Twenty tons per day, retired, purified "better for you than water purchased in the supermarket" says Georg. Like most of his colleagues, the chief engineer is on contract. Qualified individuals are so lacking they are in a strong position to face compagines shipping. After 6 months of rest on earth, the sea resume it on another ship. Each time, we must adapt to a new environment, new machine room. A new crew. Eilbek on, at night, he has three minutes to get out of his cabin, the bridge 11 when the alarm wakes him up. It happens quite often for minor problems in general. If not there three minutes before the general alarm awakens the whole boat.

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Night as agitated as the previous one without, but better in my case with two new elements: the earplugs back of the engine room and sleep perpendicular. It was Jean-Luc told me that the usefulness of the bench, always perpendicular to the bed in the cargo. According to the motion of the boat, one or the other is more or less comfortable. The seat is in any case too small to spend time rolling from side to side. The wind is down a notch. Force 4, "said Nico to the wheelhouse. He was in his face. The waves continue to smash the front of the freighter. We are still in the south of Greenland. Outside, the sky is so dark, but the wave can not walk right and tilts dangerously into the tea cup. I take a shower, holding me at the bar integrated. The feeling of being at the retirement home early.